There is something quite unnerving about being in a car cutting across 8 lanes of oncoming traffic. It is especially unnerving when this is happening at peak hour, in Delhi where everyone seems to drive like there is nobody on the road except for the car they are in. But this is the situation I have found myself in every day this week.
It seems to be accepted practice that Indian drivers tend to not have driving lessons or tests, with the ability to drive determined by how often one can use the horn. That said, I swear they must all study to be Jedi Knights at some stage. The reaction times needed to survive in what I can only call organised chaos, needs to be super human. People change lanes without looking or indicating, completely ignoring the fact there are lanes and drive with their wheels in two, undertake or overtake if someone is in their way even if that person has stopped because they can’t go anywhere, and generally push and shove their way to “get there.” Despite the possibility of an accident, you just accept that nothing will actually happen, trust in your driver and look upon the whole experience as a form of entertainment. It can actually be hilarious. Somehow the whole thing just works.
I’d forgotten to do my research on tipping before coming out, so asked the woman at reception in my hotel what the culture and expectation was around it. Without batting an eyelid she said, “Nothing is for free in india Sir.” The first few people who helped me when I arrived must have been disappointed as I only had 1000 rupee notes and I wasn’t feeling that generous. I got that sorted very quickly and always had lots of 10 rupee notes in my pocket.
Probably the most difficult thing I had to work through regarding Indian culture is the shaking of the head when someone is agreeing with you. Every time this happened I couldn’t help but think in my head, “What do you mean no!!” A few seconds later the realisation that this meant “Yes, I agree” clicks in. I was tempted to emulate my Indian buddies but then didn’t want it to come across that I was mocking them so only engaged in the traditional Westerner nodding.
Unfortunately my time in India was short and there wasn’t opportunity to go see some sights. It didn’t help that the American’s decided to shot Osama Bin Laden the day before I arrived, thus putting Delhi and Gurgaon on high alert. Security was beefed up at hotels, places of travel and tourist destinations, with a general advisement to avoid those places if possible. So my cultural experience consisted of visiting the Ambience Mall close to the hotel. It was a mall. There were shops.
I did have a bit of a laugh when I went into a (lower end) department store called Big Bazaar. I had promised to provide chocolates to my team in India as a thank you and this was the only place near where that was possible. What amused me about the place was that the check-out staff worked in their own world, irrelevant of time, haste or urgency. I was in a line, 4 people long, waiting to be served for about 25 minutes. The cashier would wander off quite regularly, slowly sauntering away to either get a credit card checked or because he’d run out of cash. This was starting to frustrate the chap in front of me who’d huff and puff, throw his arms up in the air, but say nothing.
And now I’m on my flight back to London, Business Class all the way. I could get used to being picked up from my house or hotel by a driver, make my way through customs in a matter of 5 minutes, and have people bring me drinks and food on demand. Even just the ability to lay flat while in the air seems to make it all worth it. Ah the luxury.









